O BRASIL
PROFUNDO
Creative direction Rafaela Pinah and Coolhunter Favela, photography Marcus Sabah
Rafaela Pinah takes us to the edges of Rio de Janeiro to create a visual language steeped in beauty
Words
ANA RAFAELLA OLIVEIRA
Rafaela Pinah’s images represent stories that, until now, have been untold. Her ongoing Brasil profundo (deep Brazil) project originates in Realengo, on the west side of Rio de Janeiro, where the creative director and stylist was born and raised. She now places this neighbourhood at the centre of her work, transforming its fashion and culture into impactful visuals that have travelled across the globe. “Aesthetics have always been precious things within my creation process. I was never a woman who was content with little, everything was always very opulent,” she shares. “So, this is a movement to bring sophistication to everyday life.”
Creative direction Rafaela Pinah and Coolhunter Favela, photography Marcus Sabah
“I was never a woman who was content with little, everything was always very opulent. This is a movement to bring sophistication to everyday life”
Realengo is a populous neighbourhood about two hours from the city centre. A place where the street is an extension of the home and life happens communally. The region neighbours Padre Miguel and Bangu, which respectively represent the tradition of samba schools such as Mocidade Independente and Fábrica Bangu, an old fabric factory that, in addition to being a pioneer in fashion shows, also received a visit from Hubert de Givenchy in the 1950s. This meeting of such expressive territories united with the culture of carnival (embodied by the figures of Bate-Bola) and became the essence of Pinah’s work. “When I understood the neighbourhood's history, I felt there were many tools to be explored and began to have a much more genuine experience with this place,” she reflects.
Living a reality in Rio de Janeiro that is on the periphery and which deviates from the well-known glamour of Ipanema and Copacabana, she found her own version of beauty. With no formal education, Pinah still studied fashion and anthropology, and using her own research methodology, founded Coolhunter Favela in 2016 to offer behaviour and consumption analyses as well as consultancy for brands loved by the Rio public. The studio’s clients have since included Nike, Adidas, Farm, Kenner, Stella Artois, Universal Music and Heineken. This vital work allows Pinah to give vent to the extensive popular repertoire that she has been nurturing. “Today the exchange is our feeling. If we don't see each other, if we're not there, things won't happen,” she says. “I'm talking about an African diaspora within the neighbourhood, from one neighbourhood to another, from one family to another, from the family to the state, from the state to the country. And so, I will never look for a specific place of Africanization within this delicacy. Instead, I’m starting to rebuild the chaos that’s here.”
Portrait of Rafaela Pinah
Creative direction Rafaela Pinah and Coolhunter Favela, photography Marcus Sabah
For this visionary, creative direction has also given her the possibility of transmuting her fears and rekindling the dreamy child she once was. Despite the odds, Pinah insists on nurturing a positive perspective towards her life and identity, and for this, feeding her spirituality has become essential. “Being a transvestite means tracing a new imaginary, an experience that places me at the centre of my creation as an artist. And people who are close to a transvestite have the possibility of dreaming about futures,” she asserts. “Therefore, I say that I am a big truck of dreams, and taking this articulation to this body, which is a human protest, is 100% part of my work. Entering a set or a barbershop to talk about research, for example, always causes a huge commotion. A turmoil that is internal to me and also a social turmoil.”
Creative direction Rafaela Pinah and Coolhunter Favela, photography Pedro Napolinário
One of the biggest challenges she faces is coming up against rigid masculinities, which is why she uses fashion to create images of Black men that express the sensitivity that is often dormant within them. Facing transphobia and misogyny is a reality as a Black transgender person but it doesn’t define her. Pinah's goal is to talk about love and affection for a new generation. She does this by working with ordinary people from the neighbourhood who she street casts as models. Men who, until then, saw themselves in a limited way and are now opened up to fresh possibilities. “I’m this supreme transvestite who can speak of the aesthetic beauty of these men and their behaviour. And that was a place where I found healing for myself.”
Creative direction Rafaela Pinah and Coolhunter Favela, Photography Yan Simas Ferreira
“Being a transvestite means tracing a new imaginary, an experience that places me at the centre of my creation as an artist”
This sensitivity goes further, allowing Pinah to not only better understand aspects of her identity but also unravel social codes. Looking again to the neighbourhood of her childhood made her discover the vivacity of these people who turn all of their experiences – good, bad or banal – into a celebration. “Sometimes my work is perceived as having no depth and being futile. And I tell those people that futility is essential for our internal healing. I joke that without leisure, there is no image.”
O Novo Rio, photography William Rice, styling Rafaela Pina
And thanks to Brasil profundo, the makers, the collaborators and the consumers of her work can feel Pinah’s power. “I have a hunger for beautiful images, and this hunger comes from strength. Image for me is a weapon. An image can make me feel alive, make me believe in the world, make me wake up,” she muses. “I enter a very private world where possibilities can come with the movement of the body, with the clothes, with laughter, with trance, and all of that leads to many narratives.”
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Words ANA RAFAELLA OLIVEIRA
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