IN RESIDENCE
Creative DNA x Studio Smithfield
The designers and partners of this year’s Creative DNA x Studio Smithfield residency reflect on the value of peer-to-peer exchange
“In Addis Ababa, I was struck by Haile Selassie’s military uniforms at the National Palace; coming to London, I’m reminded of them in the regalia worn by Buckingham Palace’s royal guards,” says PatCH founder Chido Kaseke. The Zimbabwean designer is reflecting on her time spent in both cities for the Creative DNA X Studio Smithfield programme and how it’s influencing her work. “I’m using a traditional finger weaving technique to connect these two styles of ceremonial dress in my first leather handbag.” This handsomely made piece – its body reminiscent of a dress coat, its strap nodding to an aiguillette and its opening akin to the visor of a military cap – is the physical culmination of her journey through this year-long fashion incubator, yet far from its only outcome. “I also hope it communicates the honour I feel in being selected for the residency and representing my home country,” she adds.
Kaseke is among the latest graduates of the British Council’s flagship creative economies training project, which to date has supported well over 200 Sub-Saharan African fashion designers to reach their potential. This year it raised the bar, partnering with Paul Smith’s Foundation, the esteemed designer’s initiative nurturing early career creatives in London, and Projekt, a social enterprise turning disused buildings into affordable workspaces and venues for creative enterprise across London.
The 2026 edition brings together Chido Kaseke from Zimbabwe, Bettydora Odhiambo from Kenya and Solome Asfaw from Ethiopia (all of whom have been through regional versions of Creative DNA) with London-based designers Renata Brenha, Karoline Vitto and Yaku Stapleton. An initial two-week immersion into Addis Ababa’s fashion ecosystem this spring was followed by a six-week summer residency at Studio Smithfield in Farringdon. This prime London location was afforded to Paul Smith’s Foundation by Projekt and houses its Fashion Residency. Vitto and Stapleton are graduates from its inaugural 18-month iteration and Brenha is part of its second. The three visiting designers joined her here in their own studio spaces.
Vilia and Raihanna wear Atieno Studio full looks, stylist’s own shoes.
Antonette wears Atieno Studio hat, dress and bag.
“We have the talent and this programme helps us build the systems around it to go to market"
Bettydora Odhiambo
Antonette wears Renata Brenha dress, PatCH earring.
“Fashion is a global business and at Paul Smith’s Foundation we’re interested in developing partnerships that celebrate its ability to unify and communicate with people all over the world,” says Paul Smith’s Foundation Director Martha Mosse. “As a creative, it’s easy to become entrenched in a narrow frame of reference, and through this partnership with the British Council and Projekt we were excited to offer our existing network the chance to visit somewhere they haven’t been before, learn new processes and ways of making, as well as business techniques.”
During their time at Studio Smithfield, the visiting designers undertook a bespoke syllabus including expert mentoring on financial planning, pricing and selling, visits to Central Saint Martins and Condé Nast, and tours of manufacturing facilities and key retailers. They also enjoyed workshops in weaving and natural dying, participated in Africa Fashion Week London and were fully immersed in the city’s fashion and arts calendar. The residency rounded out with an open studio where all six designers presented final pieces to industry media and professionals.
“At its core, the programme is about connecting emerging African designers with London’s creative community and providing them with space, mentorship and networking opportunities to develop their practices while keeping culture, craft and individual perspective at the centre,” comments Nick Hartwright, founder and CEO of Projekt. “In addition, all of the designers stayed with us at Green Rooms – our arts-led social enterprise hotel in Wood Green. Me and my team got to spend time with the designers out of hours and show them our city, which allowed them to engage with London beyond the traditional fashion and design circuit.”
Solome Asfaw, whose Afrofuturistic brand Xufan explores the emotions embedded in fashion, was most struck by London’s permissive atmosphere. “It’s very accepting here. You can do whatever you want with fashion and find people who love it,” she says. “That was eye-opening for me because back home in Addis Ababa I can feel like I have to fit in. But here you can celebrate your identity.” This reflection speaks to her final look, a boned corset and pair of elongated pleated trousers inspired by the parallels between formal statues in London and Addis Ababa. “Statues represent the memory of yourself and embracing a new era – by wearing these pieces you can be your true self.”
Vilia wears Atieno Studio dress, PatCH bag.
As Bettydora Odhiambo returns to Nairobi, she feels ready to elevate her crochet brand Atieno Studio. “We were chosen for this programme because we have the talent. What they’ve helped us with is building the systems around it to go to market,” she reflects. “Being in London has taught me how brands work here and that’s inspired me to push further with my crochet. I work with artisans so if I scale, they scale too.” Her final piece joins the dots between Ethiopia’s embroidered kemis dress and her research into English formal attire at the V&A Museum. A sexy red ensemble sees Odhiambo experiment with beading and is topped off with a wide-brimmed hat worthy of Ascot.
Her intentions chime with those of Chido Kaseke. While being schooled in moving from wholesale to direct-to-consumer models has given her brand strategy new verve, her biggest hope is that what she’s learnt can benefit the weavers she works with in Harare. “We need to make better use of our indigenous knowledge and crafts. It’s a matter of encouraging everyone to be confident in who they are and be proud of what they know, so that we can instil these skills for future generations.”
Karoline Vitto welcomed the visiting designers into her studio to meet with her team. “It was so valuable to have the time to better get to know each other’s practices and share our experiences,” she says. “It’s those small conversations with people outside of your immediate circle that feel so refreshing.” The Brazilian-born designer has been recognised for her size-inclusive womenswear at both Rio Fashion Week and London Fashion Week. And her final piece, a slinky dress that plays with gravity through a series of rings and drop fastenings, is her ode to Ethiopia’s intergenerational jazz scene.
“It’s a matter of encouraging everyone to be confident in who they are so that we can instil these skills for future generations"
Chido Kaseke
Raihanna wears Xufan corset and trousers, stylist’s own accessories and shoes.
As Bettydora Odhiambo returns to Nairobi, she feels ready to elevate her crochet brand Atieno Studio. “We were chosen for this programme because we have the talent. What they’ve helped us with is building the systems around it to go to market,” she reflects. “Being in London has taught me how brands work here and that’s inspired me to push further with my crochet. I work with artisans so if I scale, they scale too.” Her final piece joins the dots between Ethiopia’s embroidered kemis dress and her research into English formal attire at the V&A Museum. A sexy red ensemble sees Odhiambo experiment with beading and is topped off with a wide-brimmed hat worthy of Ascot.
Her intentions chime with those of Chido Kaseke. While being schooled in moving from wholesale to direct-to-consumer models has given her brand strategy new verve, her biggest hope is that what she’s learnt can benefit the weavers she works with in Harare. “We need to make better use of our indigenous knowledge and crafts. It’s a matter of encouraging everyone to be confident in who they are and be proud of what they know, so that we can instil these skills for future generations.”
Karoline Vitto welcomed the visiting designers into her studio to meet with her team. “It was so valuable to have the time to better get to know each other’s practices and share our experiences,” she says. “It’s those small conversations with people outside of your immediate circle that feel so refreshing.” The Brazilian-born designer has been recognised for her size-inclusive womenswear at both Rio Fashion Week and London Fashion Week. And her final piece, a slinky dress that plays with gravity through a series of rings and drop fastenings, is her ode to Ethiopia’s intergenerational jazz scene.
“It’s that spirit of culture that we’ve tried to offer in London as we share and learn together"
Renata Brenha
Visit Anabel Rose
Photography, Direction and Make up Erica Aryee
Styling Enyonam Ayivor
Kimono NAKOI
Words Nana Kojo Mula
Published on 8 October, 2026
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