OLIVER
ROUSTEIN
Created in collaboration with, and all Balmain clothing available from FARFETCH.
In conversation with Balmain’s creative director about our collaboration with FARFETCH for US Black History Month
“I think trendy is old today. I don’t want to be trendy. I want to be timeless,” Olivier Rousteing asserts. “For me, this is the meaning of fashion – to be part of history and not something everyone forgets after two months.” Balmain’s creative director is talking to me over Zoom from his Paris office about what drives his vision as he celebrates 10 years at the helm of the brand this month. It’s a cold morning but there’s a warm smile on his face, and a loose monogram shirt from Balmain’s SS21 collection on his back as he gracefully continues: “I want to focus on the DNA of the house. Why do you love my aesthetic? What do you look for at Balmain? I knew the answers after I made this season’s collection.”
This drive to “create conversations of hope” shines through in everything the Brazilian visual artist does, his vivid art and fashion imagery conjuring up a bright and joyful universe. Paulino grew up in Mato Grosso do Sul, one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world, and still incorporates the magic of his country’s lush surroundings into his vision today. Having worked and lived around the world, he currently calls São Paulo home, where his editorial clients include the Brazilian editions of Vogue, Elle and GQ.
“Carnival is rooted in Brazil, from the costumes and masks to the colours, it’s our catharsis for a new beginning”
It’s a city that also feeds his soul, and where he’s found his creative community. “São Paulo is a mixture of the best of Brazil. A strong, vibrant city, multicultural and full of life. It’s overwhelming at first, yet peaceful in the long run,” he shares. “I’m grateful and blessed to be surrounded by talented individuals and passionate entrepreneurs - young, diverse, soulful and artsy. Collectively we will contribute and drive a new colourful era.”
For this story with Nataal, Thom Browne and FARFETCH, Gleeson headed two hours outside of São Paulo to celebrate the municipality of São Luiz do Paraitinga. “The city has this unique energy that captivates you from sunrise to sunset. I feel it every time I visit,” he says. “Sadly, in 2010 the city went under water due to heavy rainfall and has been under renovation ever since. While the pandemic slowed down the tourism of this beautiful place, I chosen it as my backdrop to remind everyone of the good times and to share my hope for the rebirth of the city.”
Juxtaposing traditional Brazilian carnival themes with Thom Browne’s precise, unisex tailoring for AW22, the story features a cast of his friends and collaborators from the region who he described as “young powerful faces.” The result is arresting, innovative and brimming with delight. “Thom Browne continues to innovate and challenge the fashion industry without following the trends or falling into stereotypes. My creative vision shares the same sensibilities. So, I wanted to bring some Brazilian fun his formal silhouettes by introducing some carnival vibes. Carnival is rooted in Brazil, from the costumes and masks to the colours, we leave all our worries and struggles behind. It is our catharsis for a new beginning. I hope this shoot highlights both the lightness and the bright side of carnival.”
Creative
Photography and creative direction Gleeson Paulino
Production and talent Yasmin Porto
Hair and make-up Branca Moura
Talent Augusto Comuana
Set design and props Yuri Godoy
Set design and props assistant Gabriel Salvador
Styling assistant and talent Ottavia Delfanti
Photography assistant Theo Casadei
Production assistant Carolina Monteiro
Treatment Nicolas Leite
Creative direction Marie Gomis-Trezise
Art direction Precious Opara
Editorial direction Helen Jennings
Words Miriam Bouteba
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Published on December 16, 2021